Is it possible to repair a snapamp or do you have any other suggestions for getting a board running that I have abused?
Gnd and 11.5V intended for optoisolated port 3
acidentally ended up like this:

Gnd went to pin 14 = IO13
11.5V went to pin 13 = IO6

I was applying voltage to my breakout board to test the limit switch input and somehow I got a backwards ribbon cable connected between the snapamp and my breakout board.
The instant the voltages touch the breakout board Kmotion reported an auto disconnect. The status now is that if that board is attached to Kflop the kflop will not boot. The other snapamp still works fortunately.
I haven't used this CNC router for a year. It was a real rats nest and I was rebuilding the wiring and I used a cable from long ago where I had pressed on one of the IDC connectors backwards. Must've been from another project because it had polarizing tabs. I don't think it's possible it ever could've worked.

Sorry to hear that.  Unfortunately it isn't cost effective to repair SnapAmps.

If you you contact Dynomotion Support they can offer some discount on a replacement if you explain what happened.

Regards

TK

 

Is it possible to repair a snapamp or do you have any other suggestions for getting a board running that I have abused?
Gnd and 11.5V intended for optoisolated port 3
acidentally ended up like this:

Gnd went to pin 14 = IO13
11.5V went to pin 13 = IO6

I was applying voltage to my breakout board to test the limit switch input and somehow I got a backwards ribbon cable connected between the snapamp and my breakout board.
The instant the voltages touch the breakout board Kmotion reported an auto disconnect. The status now is that if that board is attached to Kflop the kflop will not boot. The other snapamp still works fortunately.
I haven't used this CNC router for a year. It was a real rats nest and I was rebuilding the wiring and I used a cable from long ago where I had pressed on one of the IDC connectors backwards. Must've been from another project because it had polarizing tabs. I don't think it's possible it ever could've worked.

I will be getting another snapamp.
I wouldn't mind having another one sitting around after that though.
Is it possible to guess at what was damaged? Did the inputs I named go directly to the fpga? Would the excess voltages stop there?
I once built a graphics card using a qfp graphics chip but it had courser 1mm pitch. It's barely possible I could replace this.
If it was the fpga is that something that gets programmed on boot by another system so that just replacing the chip is adequate ?

You are thinking along the same lines I am. I believe the i/o lines do go
directly to the fpga, maybe through a resistor.. A thermal imaging camera
would help determine what chips might be bad. Without one, you can squirt
rubbing alcohol on the top of the board and see where it evaporates the
fastest.

That FPGA would really be pushing the limits of what I think I could
replace as well. I'd likely not worry about solder bridges and clean them
up afterwords with solder wick. I do believe that the FPGA gets
programmed every time it's powered up, from the main kflop.

- Steve

> I will be getting another snapamp.
> I wouldn't mind having another one sitting around after that though.
> Is it possible to guess at what was damaged? Did the inputs I named go
> directly to the fpga? Would the excess voltages stop there?
> I once built a graphics card using a qfp graphics chip but it had
> courser 1mm pitch. It's barely possible I could replace this.
> If it was the fpga is that something that gets programmed on boot by
> another system so that just replacing the chip is adequate ?

Yes those pins go directly to the FPGA.  Its hard to say what other devices may have been damaged.  Here is the part number for the FPGA:

XC2S50-5TQG144C

The FPGA is configured on boot up by the DSP so all you should need to do is replace the FPGA and it should work if everything else is ok.  Unfortunately if there are other components bad then there is a possibility that the new FPGA would be again damaged.  So fixing things one at a time may never succeed.

Good luck :)

Regards

TK

 

I will be getting another snapamp.
I wouldn't mind having another one sitting around after that though.
Is it possible to guess at what was damaged? Did the inputs I named go directly to the fpga? Would the excess voltages stop there?
I once built a graphics card using a qfp graphics chip but it had courser 1mm pitch. It's barely possible I could replace this.
If it was the fpga is that something that gets programmed on boot by another system so that just replacing the chip is adequate ?

Stoked at new skill !!!!
I got the FPGA you named from Digikey.
From Amazon I got some solder wick, hakko 2mm bevel tip, flux pen and a low temp solder removal kit called ChipQuick.
The chip came off easy. Cleanup took about half an hour. The new chip went on easily with about 10 solder bridges which I cleaned with the wIck. Since I was using a residue free flux pen there wasn't a lot of mess but there was still some and I attacked it vigorously with a toothbrush and isopropyl.
I mounted this on my daily use D.C. servo Bridgeport since I didn't want to disassemble the dual snap-amp router setup.
It started up just fine and all three axes work perfect.